Posts Tagged ‘fashion designer’

Ragini Ahuja

September 6, 2013

rag3

Ragini Ahuja, 25. Fashion designer at Ikai. Lives in Delhi. Likes péro and A&T. Would like to own Junya Watanabe & Thakoon. Is waiting to read Khaled Hosseini’s latest, & listening to Husna on repeat.

Did you always want to work in fashion?
No. Fashion is too fast. I always sketched a lot..I would’ve been an architect otherwise.

Best thing about being at fashion week.
It’s the vacation after all the hard work! Love the bit where I get to wear my new collection before anybody else.

Where do you shop from mostly?
I am more of an anti-fit kind of person. The bigger the better! For basics I shop at M&S, Anokhi, Clarks, Lancome. The list keeps changing really.

What do you like about Delhi?
Winters. Friends. And I love the food here.

Do you remember the last dream you had?
It was this morning. I was with my sister in New York celebrating 4th of July. There was a huge hoarding. I think. Somehow I knew it was the 4th of July. And I’ve never been to New York. We saw firecrackers. Then I remember I was flying back.

As in? On a plane or like a bird?
Plane.


Photographed at Lakme Fashion Week in August 2013.

Shift | LFW

September 5, 2013

sharon crawford street style india
Sharon Crawford, fashion stylist//Vogue India.

nidhi sunil fashion model
Nidhi Sunil, fashion model.

Clothes by Shift.

Photographed at Lakme Fashion Week in August 2013.

Purva Rana | Frou Frou

May 30, 2013

street style fashion frou frou india

street style fashion frou frou india

Clothes: Archana‘s label Frou Frou(read more here).

Model: Purva Rana, 23, from Dharamsala. Photographed in March 2013 during Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai.

Day 1:Wills India Fashion Week

February 18, 2012

wills india fashion week vineet bahl

wills india fashion week vineet bahl

wills india fashion week vineet bahl

wills india fashion week vineet bahl

wills fashion week india

wills india fashion week vineet bahl

wills india fashion week vineet bahl
Vineet Bahl Autumn Winter 2012.
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wills india fashion week Anand kabra

wills india fashion week Anand kabra

wills india fashion week Anand kabra

wills india fashion week Anand kabra

wills india fashion week Anand kabra

wills india fashion week Anand kabra

wills india fashion week Anand kabra

wills india fashion week Anand kabra
Anand Kabra AW 12

wills india fashion week anupama dayal

wills india fashion week anupama dayal
Anupama Dayal AW 12.

james ferreira wills india fashion week

james ferreira wills india fashion week

james ferreira wills india fashion week

james ferreira wills india fashion week

james ferreira wills india fashion week

james ferreira wills india fashion week
James Ferreira AW 12.

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Anju modi wills india fashion week

Anju modi wills india fashion week

Anju modi wills india fashion week

Anju modi wills india fashion week

Anju modi wills india fashion week

Anju modi wills india fashion week

Anju modi wills india fashion week

Anju modi wills india fashion week

Anju modi wills india fashion week

Anju modi wills india fashion week

Anju modi wills india fashion week

Anju modi wills india fashion week

Anju modi wills india fashion week
Anju Modi AW 12.

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Ela|Preview

October 9, 2011

There was nothing else in this stall. Just these few pieces huddled together in a corner..and a potted plant.

Ela by Joyjit Talukdar wills india fashion week

Ela by Joyjit Talukdar wills india fashion week

Ela by Joyjit Talukdar. His show is on 10th Oct 12.45 pm at Wills India Fashion Week.

Tribe|Preview

October 9, 2011

anand bhushan spring summer 2012

anand bhushan tribe spring summer 2012

anand bhushan spring summer 2012

anand bhushan tribe spring summer 2012

“Pret in silk, chiffon, organza, lightweight dull crepe, and lasercut georgette. Animal skin textures and patterns are recreated in Anand Bhushan’s signature ornate surface styles. Drape, soft tailoring, roomy bodycon, & options for varying frame are constructed in precise proportions….a chic harmony of surface and shape.”

anand bhushan
Anand Bhushan is showing his collection Tribe at Wills India Fashion Week 2011 at 2p.m. on 11.10.11. Come.

Streets on the runway

November 26, 2010

Most of collections that go on Indian runways during fashion weeks never(?) make it to the streets(at least not in my documentation/if it has happened before let me know)…so it was nice to see the process being reversed during Paromita’s show and streets going up on the runway first. Maybe the runway will follow someday?

Her clothes are inspired by bartan walis, dhobis, & rickshaw walas. She likes the initial chaos of creating…prefers rustic elegance to glamorous fashion…likes to mix elements from different cultures in her designs. She photographs bicycles and her own collections..has done about 5 fashion weeks..and all this started off when she was only looking around. I also quite like the last line of her description for her SS’10 collection – “don’t miss the rooster.”

Paromita Banerjee, 27. Fashion designer.

Childhood.
I was born and brought up in a part of Kolkata which was surrounded by old architecture, small lanes and by-lanes, that eventually grew into my being and left a lasting impression. I was a shy kid and my parents made sure that I never missed having a sibling around. I travelled a lot around the country with my parents. I was, and still am, a voracious reader; painting was a hobby and I remember being enrolled in “art classes” which later gave way to my career.

You joined NID to study textile design. How did you end up designing clothes?
At NID, studying textile design was more of an offshoot thing that I could directly correlate to my painting classes. During the course I could not see myself doing just textiles. I felt my knowledge had to be used to create something more tangible that I could relate to- like creating garments.

My first internship and final graduation project was with Ashish Soni – whose style I absolutely love. While working there I realised my own potential for creating designs and starting my own label. Nothing seemed impossible and the fact that one must have years and oodles of job-experience is slightly exaggerated.

I think it was also my want to reach out to a wider audience and the thrill to see somebody wearing my creations and walking right past me. Now, when that happens, it’s an amazing feeling.

At Konstfack, Stockholm.
I was granted a three and half month scholarship at the Konstfack University of Art and Culture. I attended half a semester of the textile design courses offered there. Amongst many things, I learnt different methods of printing which is quite a variation from what we study in India. There was a module for studying clothing and dressing styles of the costumes of the Royal Opera Theatre, Stockholm. I was also taught machine knitting which I thoroughly enjoyed.

You’d mentioned you draw inspiration from the feel of handloom fabrics and your garments emphasize the feel of the “hand-made.” What is the process like? And once you get inspired what actually takes place in terms of turning that idea in to clothes?
The fabrics are usually hand-made or hand-woven on the looms which also make each fabric yardage unique- as the imperfections in the nature of the cloth, while being woven, are the true essence and character of it. I start my designing process with a visual reference comprising mostly of images that I have seen around me or of what I would have photographed sometime over the years. I couple this visual reference with a bit of research work, so that I am ready to start a collection. I also follow up on the various clothing styles and cultures of different geographical regions. I try and reflect this in my work.

..similar to your summer/resort 2010 collection?
Yes, I was greatly inspired by the Bengali “laal-paar” sari that has a traditional red hand-woven border with a “Temple” / triangular motif on an off-white cotton base. It is an intrinsic part of every Bengali ritual and festival. I also worked upon other hand-woven fabrics like muslin and kota, and coupled them with chintz prints. The fabrics were sourced from the hand- weaving clusters around West Bengal. I had named it “The Laal-Paar and Other Stories.”

Do you think participating in fashion weeks is necessary?
Yes, initially to get the world to notice you, it absolutely is. Whether you like it or not, a fashion week has a wider reach in this age of information and technology. Even before the lights go dim at the end of a show, the ramp pictures have already been circulated. Which designer would not want this kind of publicity? Having said that, on the flip side, if one is confident of selling designs, and if he knows his client base and market, one can do so, then a fashion week might not seem important. Although the initial road-map is clearer after a couple of seasons of participation at fashion weeks.

How many Fashion weeks have you done so far?
..four consecutive seasons at the LFW, Mumbai. I was also the sole designer representing India in Shanghai last month, at the Shanghai chapter of the World Fashion Organisation under the United Nations. There were designers representing each of the five continents.

Your first show and inspirations.
My first show at the Lakmé Fashion Week for Gen-next collection was in March 2009. We had an option of creating 8-10 looks for a fall/winter line. The selection process was intense as there were many other applicants. I had sent a single ensemble (which till date remains one of my best selling pieces) in double layered Khadi with stark leaf motifs embroidered along the hem. I teamed it with another double layered shawl drape which was also hand-woven and with a placement embroidery detail. It got selected and finally I built up on it by working out looks inspired by what I saw on the streets – style of the lady who sells utensils on the road, the checkered “lungi” that a cycle rickshaw driver wears, the dhoti drape of a dhobi. It might sound bizarre, but these are the real torch-bearers of “fashion”. They are creating “looks” out of the only pieces of clothing they own, that too, with such a strong identity. With all these looks in mind, I designed the collection and once the music (I select my music- mostly folkloric and world fusion genres) and make-up was decided, I was geared up for my very first show.

I’ve  noticed a lot of students do well in their class curriculum but don’t achieve all that much in their final design collection. What do you think goes wrong?
I think they end up trying too hard to put in all that they have learned in that one single collection. At the end of it, it is very essential to understand the kind of clothes one would want to make, the context in which one would want to place his/her collection, and finally to understand the market which he/she would initially want to cater to. Perhaps, one can disagree with me, since it is not possible to understand/ judge all this while at the beginners’ stage, but to me, a reality check right at the beginning always means you will go a long way.

Any dos and don’ts for the first timers at fashion weeks?
Don’t underestimate or overestimate the media.
Don’t try to ape anybody else’s look or idea if it does not suit your brand or identity. It would look hideous.
A fashion week would be back 6 months later, so do not be greedy and try to show all your ideas all at once. It would be a huge mess.

Try to finish garments way before time to check for finishing, etc. The last sore thumb is bad finishing at a prestigious fashion week.
Be confident and brave if you are taking risks with any particular collection or “look.” Risks are a part of our line of work.
Finally, do believe in your instincts. It always works.

Winter/Festive 2010 collection and inspirations.
Based on the references from cultural styles that I have grown to like over the years..I’ve added a stronger statement with the head-wrap along with colour blocks, which somehow had something very Japanese about them. I am hugely inspired by the costumes and attire of people in different regions and more often than not, they are the locals from the various ethnic groups all over the world. They are the ones with the strongest impression and essence on who they are or where they have originally come from. While the whole world is out to get “modernized” these are the cultural groups that have tried to stay grounded.

This was a collection with ethnic-contemporary influences. The look was based on a collection of stories from a mix of old-Gharana-style shawl drapes to Mughal-style angarkha wraps to the kimono-inspired shift dresses in Khadi. The fabrics were mostly hand woven in the form of Khadi, Matka and Tussar from Bengal, Handloom Mangalagiri cotton from Andhra Pradesh, to discharge printed silks. The embroidery motifs were borrowed from the Mughal “patka” with modifications of the leaf from the “pichvai” /temple hanging cloth.

In the first story, the silhouettes were colour-blocked black & white with a stark red accent based on a look in Khadi with the garments being a cultural mix of influences from the Kosode: the short-sleeved kimono, to the Mughal jama and angarakhas, both essentially being men’s style of clothing.
Resist dyeing was used in the indigo-white story, again in Khadi, hand-woven on shift dresses and bolero wraps.
In the third, darker hues of rust, fuchsia, greens to greys, and yellows were used + lots of layering in the form of panelled kurtas and lehenga skirts with waist-coats.

Update: I usually make the shoes with fabric scraps left-overs after each collection. So one would find all these handlooms, chintz, textures, embroidery left-overs/gone-bad pieces, transforming into shoes. Due to public demand, I intend to manufacture them for the roads as well since right now they all have printed fabric soles.

How important is it for you to have a celebrity wear one of your designs from a business point of view?
Frankly its a huge validation if a celebrity does wear one’s designs. It is equivalent to instant publicity since the “aam-janta” can relate to them (I wonder how), which might have otherwise taken months to achieve through the usual processes of brand building.  But to be honest, I’m more for making clothes which appeal to my sense of aesthetics or  the mood and direction that I want to take in a particular collection; I really don’t care whether any celebrity would like to endorse my clothes or not.

Do you see yourself having a “bollywood show stopper” someday?
No! Never! At this point of time, I’m absolutely against the idea because I feel it is the clothes that draw the “real” audience to the shows and not the show-stoppers. As designers we can be called upon to be fashion ‘trend-setters’ for the next season, and in no way would I want that to be diluted by the presence of a celebrity show-stopper walking the ramp during my ramp shows. I feel my clothes by themselves have the right to make their presence felt, without an added celebrity “stopping” my “show!” I am confident enough to make a collection speak for itself with the right kind of styling/look/feel, without someone else doing it for me. I still do not understand the big-deal about star -gazing. Nevertheless, the celebrities are more than welcome to attend my shows if they can relate to my work, and i would of course design for them if they like.

Do you think that our obsession with beauty and celebrities might change?
No it might not. In fact it will increase over time. We all talk about words like “inner beauty,” beauty in the eyes of the beholder and all of that, but at the end of the day we still go in for a fair-handsome groom or vice-versa! On a not so serious note, the number of fairness products that have flooded the market, leaves one wanting to be on the “fair” side of it all! We like our celebrities to be well – turned out. We gossip over the fact that we’ve seen one of them repeating the same outfits on more than one occasion, we snigger over the fact that one of them has apparently put on weight…and blah blah. Now, can we stop obsessing about these? Not all of us can; after all we all need a diversion from our mundane existences (or something like that )perhaps.

Available at: Ensemble, Zoya, Aza in Mumbai, Collage in Chennai, Taamara and Anonym in Hyderabad, Sade in Pune, Nautanky in Ahmedabad,  Ensemble in Delhi. Price range from Rs 4,200 to 16,000.

Boy who grew up in a pile of clothes

October 30, 2010

Sailex Ngairangbam, 26. Fashion Designer

Childhood
I was born to a mother who was already in the same profession, and I, quite literally, grew up in a pile of clothes!! I had always been fascinated with pieces of clothing around me and knew how to sew by the time I turned 8. I was lucky because I had understanding and encouraging parents who didn’t force me into a conventional field of study – which then was either engineering or medicine.

Studying and working
I was one of the laziest students at NIFT. My faculty frequently wanted to flunk me because I refused to work and was never on time, but somehow I managed to get through. For my graduation, I created a collection called “Lust Bug.” If I looked at it now I probably would want to throw up. Post NIFT, I worked for Lee at Arvind Brands in Bangalore, but I quit before my probation period ended. I couldn’t survive in a corporate environment.

Domus and Italian influences
I realized I needed further exposure in the international fashion scenario; it didn’t really matter to me where I was going to study. I had heard about Domus, and I wanted to be in Milan, so I decided to give it a shot and enrolled myself. I would surmise that technically NIFT furnished me with the basics and Domus polished the rest. Though, to be completely honest, the best education was just living in Italy and watching fashion conscious people day in and day out. The typical Italian city-goer was my biggest influence and living in Milan broadened my fashion sensibilities, which, until then, had been acutely “Indian-Corporate –Fashion” driven so to speak.
I sorely miss the Italian appertivo, a happy hour culture which starts at 6 pm and includes unlimited food on the house if you buy a drink !! And, of course, I miss shopping there too!!

Working Abroad
I started working as a student. I stitched & created prototypes for Rafael Lopez & made technicals for Costume National. I worked with a design house in Milan for a while, but due to visa issues, I had to head back.

Gen Next 2008 and subsequent Collections
My first public showing was Gen-Next 2008 for which I created a collection based on the cartoon character “Emily the strange”. My recent Lakme Winter/festive collection “Duality” was inspired by Lucifer, fallen angels; the duality between good and evil in the same being. It took me 20 days and 20 nights to create it. I’ve come a long way from my first collection at LFW in 2008 and have grown a lot over time. I’m very fickle minded. For me, to create a collection like this one, I need to sort my head out first. Once I’m mentally prepared the rest follows through.

Photos from Duality.

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Shirt/shorts/bow tie – self made
Belt – Sarojini market
Bag – Sisley
Footwear – custom made

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Edited by Nidhi Sunil

Tailored biomechanics

October 18, 2010
An interview with Ruchika Sachdeva.
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Shoes – Vivienne Westwood. Trousers – own design. Bag – Vintage, Porto Bello, London. Tee – Zara
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Making a living out of dressing up
I always wanted to dress well, but never thought I’d take fashion up as a profession until I got out of school. At school, I studied Commerce & Business. I took up fashion because I could connect to it on a very personal level. I wanted to be able to design my own clothes and earn a living.
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Studying and being free
I graduated from London College of Fashion after a year of studying at Pearl Academy of Fashion. My stay in London taught me a lot because it was my first time living alone. The freedom and independence added to the experience and made it brilliant.
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On the streets
For many years people in London used fashion as a tool to revolt in regard to sub-cultures such as punk and mod. Street style there touches another level altogether. Street fashion in India is all mixed up because of the various influences I guess. I specially admire the way people from the north-east carry themselves. I feel, now, people are experimenting and taking fashion more seriously than before.
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Generation next
Lakme Fashion Week was a step forward. I sent in my graduating collection for the ‘Gen-next’ category and got selected. I am glad I got through as it gave me a bigger platform and a lot of exposure.
Collection
The collection is called Biomechanics.
I explored the relationship shared between human beings and machines and incorporated the findings in my designs. The collection is futuristic and androgynous, emphasizing on – structure, tailoring and ornamentation. I also took inspiration from the strong, machine like, warrior subjects in H.R.Giger‘s paintings.
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Post fashion week
I am now working on the orders. The creative part of having a design label comes naturally, but the business part of it – which is all numbers, taxation, and costing – takes a lot more effort.
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Edited & re-edited by Megha Ramesh.